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08 JAN

Adam's January Update

After getting back from USA, I had thought I would be totally weak. Two weeks on sandstone is not the best idea if you want to be fit for super powerful power endurance route such as La Dura Dura. But the first session on campus board proved my expectation wrong. Despite no training for more than a week, I was the strongest on campus boar ever. Four one arm pull-ups, the previous record was one! Nevertheless, I stayed for three more weeks at home to make me sure that I would be 100% ready for my ultimate project La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain. It is a project I had already tried almost 5 weeks in spring together with Chris Sharma.

 

The traning was going on quite well, I focused a lot on power and short endurance for this route.
In the meantime, I thought I would give a couple of burns into my project close from home, which is expected to be at 9b range. I tried it one day, felt super good, but then it was just dripping wet. Just before going to Spain, we went to Stockholm for La Sportiva Legends only competitions. Five of us were invited for this exciting bouldering session. It didn't go very well for me, the style of the boulders were tough for me. Luckily I focused a lot on campus board during the last two years, so I could do some moves at least. Actually, all of us could win, but someone managed to deal with the psyche better. Sean McCol won, followed by Dima Sharafudtinov and I had to be satisfied with the very last, 5th place. Sucks, but I hoped it would make healthily angry for the outdoor project in Spain.

 

The psyche was enormously high. I couldn't resist trying the moves again. Everything seemed ready for swift success, but this route is simply hard. Suprisingly harder every time I try it. Sending it after a few days was out of question. I had to let my body memorize the moves perfectly again, in order to get into the linking crux fresh. But it didn't make me less psyched. I enjoyed trying so much. Routine was unknown word at the beginning of the process this year. Nevertheless, falling off for many days off the crux span became annoying and stressing routine once again. Chris was putting some good effort. He managed to stick it a couple of times, but the next dyno to the good hueco is still hard. Looking at him was definitely motivating, but stressful routine of falling off that crux span was very hard to deal with.

 

After some 10 days, I had to fly to Italy to participate at inauguration of Montura (my clothes sponsor) shop in Schio. I flew back in afternoon, landing at 2.50 PM in Barcelona. It seemed that game was over for that day. Sprinting through the arrival's hall, driving pretty fast and running up the hill and here I was underneath the cliff with some light left to give it one good try. Some pull-ups, decent crimping in the lower part of the project and I could set off. Finally I climbed perfectly. I stuck the span, felt quite fresh, but fell of the next dyno into the hueco anyway... No... The next day, it wasn't so good anymore. Second day on in the end of the season is never good, no surprise.

 

More surprising was how sore I felt in the morning on rest-day. I felt as I was after full week of hardcore training. Apparently, I only fell off the fourteenth (!) move of my project. The last two days remained. The hope kind of disappeared, but I was willing to give my best at least. The next day, I didn't feel 100% strong, but somehow, I climbed very well. I stuck the crux span, got ready for the throw into the hueco, but latched it in a stupid angle and fell!!! That day the temps were good, it was cloudy which enabled us to give it a try early in the day. I was thinking of trying again, but then postponed it on the next day, as I thought it was a good idea to be as fresh as possible. On the other hand, Chris gave three tries and and the third attempt (!!!) he finally stuck the hueco, but slipped in the next move! Such a bummer. There is still 8c+ to go from there on, but one thing is sure – he was close.

 

The next day which was the last day of our trip, I had ZERO power. Absolutely. From some unknown reason, I felt weak and barely made it to the first hard move. It was a good time to leave. The season came to the end, I was tired and there was no reason to stay any longer. All I needed was to rest, eat awesome christmas food and get out the project out of my mind for a while.
After a week of rest, I started training slowly again, we did some cross-country skiing, doing some easy bouldering and having a perfect time with friend in the mountains in Czech republic. But the project is there not to be neglected. It is obsession. I will be back as soon as I will feel strong again!

 

All the best for 2013 to all of you !!
 

Adam Ondra Entre-Prises Climbing Walls

Adam Ondra Entre-Prises Sponsored Athlete

Adam Ondra Entre-Prises Climbing Holds

Photo credit : Inka Matouskova

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